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I'd been told Shanghai would feel like New York and Tokyo had a child that learned mandarin. Half right. It's bigger than either, more deliberate than both, and it has the rare quality of a city that has decided what it is and is now executing on the brief.
What I'd do again
- Three full days in the city before any day-trips. The first 48 hours
are jet-lag, the next two are getting your bearings. Suzhou and Hangzhou
are 30 and 60 minutes by HSR; book them for days four and six.
- A rooftop bar that's not the obvious one. Flair (Ritz-Carlton, 58F)
is the picture-perfect Bund view. The Captain is the casual one that gets
forgotten and shouldn't. Reserve both.
- Disney even if you "don't do theme parks". TRON is the best coaster
I've ridden anywhere. The fireworks finale beats the Florida one. Go.
What I'd skip
- The Bund Sightseeing Tunnel under the Huangpu. It's a 4-minute kitsch
ride. Take the metro one stop instead.
- Trying to hit Hangzhou and Suzhou and a water town. Pick two. Three
is one HSR too many.
Practical things nobody told me
- Alipay's metro QR is faster than buying a card. Set it up before you
fly, not in the airport.
- VPN is non-negotiable for Google / Instagram / WhatsApp. Install before
you land.
- Carry tissues. Some public toilets are BYO.
The single best meal
A hole-in-the-wall noodle shop on the corner of Anfu Lu, no English menu,
no English staff, and a queue that doesn't move quickly. Worth every
minute. Show the cashier this character — 拉面 — and pay 18 yuan in cash.
Full 9-day guide →
